You know the old saying, “If you can’t say something nice, say nothing”? It probably accounts for my rarely holding forth on Pinot Egregious…sorry, Pinot GRIGIO. A grape is often derided as mass-produced, supermarket quality, flaccid and overpriced—the Soave of the new millennium. If Gertrude Stein opened a bottle, she might famously describe there being no there, there.
Mildly surprising then to encounter a Pinot not only worthy of mention but of drinking. From the hills near Florence. By a subsidiary of Antinori. In a blend with Pinot Bianco and Riesling…and when was the last time you heard those grapes associated with Tuscany? Sourced elsewhere, of course, but still…
The result is a good summer wine. It won’t knock off your socks or sandals, but it’s an acceptable aperitif or accompaniment for light fish dishes and seafood-based antipasti. The Riesling gives it loads of floral aromatics. Peaches and lemon-lime flavors are kept lively by a noticeable level of minerals. There’s enough acidity to keep it interesting and moving along to a clear, fruity finish.
A deserving Pinot, and it’s not from Trentino-Alto Adige. Whoa…I’m channeling Dylan, for the times they are a-changin’.
Check out our wine reviews here.