Monteloro 2007 “Mezzo Braccio” IGT, Toscana

Posted by Keith Wallace

You know the old saying, “If you can’t say something nice, say nothing”? It probably accounts for my rarely holding forth on Pinot Egregious…sorry, Pinot GRIGIO. A grape is often derided as mass-produced, supermarket quality, flaccid and overpriced—the Soave of the new millennium. If Gertrude Stein opened a bottle, she might famously describe there being no there, there.

Mildly surprising then to encounter a Pinot not only worthy of mention but of drinking. From the hills near Florence. By a subsidiary of Antinori. In a blend with Pinot Bianco and Riesling…and when was the last time you heard those grapes associated with Tuscany? Sourced elsewhere, of course, but still…

The result is a good summer wine. It won’t knock off your socks or sandals, but it’s an acceptable aperitif or accompaniment for light fish dishes and seafood-based antipasti. The Riesling gives it loads of floral aromatics. Peaches and lemon-lime flavors are kept lively by a noticeable level of minerals. There’s enough acidity to keep it interesting and moving along to a clear, fruity finish.

A deserving Pinot, and it’s not from Trentino-Alto Adige. Whoa…I’m channeling Dylan, for the times they are a-changin’.

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