Orsolani 2006 “La Rustia” Erbaluce di Caluso

Along the Dora Baltea river in northwestern Piemonte is the town of Caluso, center for the Erbaluce di Caluso DOC. The eponymous grape, named for the goddess Albaluce, takes on a bright coppery hue in the slanting rays of harvest sunlight. The locals then refer to it as Uva Russia for its “roasted” appearance.

Orsolani’s “La Rustia” is incredibly refreshing, offering a high level of bracing citric-lime acidity complemented by a balancing smoothness. Floral and hay-like on the nose, its mellow flavors call to mind apricots, peaches, tropical melon, and even grapefruit. There’s a creamy background of honey without the expected sweetness. Another example, like Timorasso and Arneis, that interesting white wines can coexist in a region of high-powered, high-priced reds.