Hubert Veneau 2011 Pouilly Fume

Posted by Keith Wallace

The way to not sell to an American is by telling him that a bottle of wine is served to politicians. We especially (and by “We” I mean us in general) don’t want to hear that it was served to the French Parliament.  This is something you learn very quickly in the wine biz (I had a friend who earned a bucket load of angry emails from customers when she proudly announced her wine had been served in the White House.) Booze is political here in the states (thank you, Prohibition!).

Whoever is running the PR campaign for this wine should lay off the “Veneau wines are served all over the world, and notably at the table of the French Parliament” line. It’s really not going to move bottles. That is sad because this is a fantastic bottle of modern Pouilly, perched somewhere between the flinty traditions of the Loire and the modern pizzazz of New Zealand.

On the nose, sweet grass and jalapeno peppers wiggle about, along with a strong note of fresh melon. On the palate, the acidity is brilliant and cutting and clear. The minerality soaks in with a few toasted pine nuts and beeswax.  Grapefruit and lemon zest rise into the finish, which then folds towards quince and granite.

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