Tenuta Uccillino 2004 Burson Riserva, Emilia-Romagna

Posted by Keith Wallace

The wines of the Emilia-Romagna have always been pushed to the background by the gastronomic delights of Bologna, Parma, and Modena. Understandable when you factor in that for decades, the region’s vinicultural standard-bearer was fizzy, light, everybody’s-easy-to-like Lambrusco.

That doesn’t mean there isn’t good wine to be had. For example, the area near the ancient city of Ravenna is home to five communes producing an IGT wine known locally as Burson from the obscure Longanesi grape. The varietal is named for Antonio Longanesi, who found it nestled among other plantings sometime in the 1950s. Though most likely a survivor from Roman times, it was a blending grape few outside its immediate vicinity had heard of.

Interesting, then, to discover a partially “passito” wine of Amarone-like depth, with aromas of forest fruits, dark plums, spice, and well-seasoned raisins. The lush texture is buoyed by markedly good acidity. Concentrated and balanced, totally seamless from front to an excellent, mouth-filling finish. Only one way to describe this hidden gem – delicious!

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