Mauro Molino Barolo, 2000, Piemonte

Posted by Keith Wallace

What makes a Barolo truly great? Or how does one make a great Barolo? Two sides of the same coin in the ongoing debate among the “modernists” and “traditionalists” of Piemonte, who are both seeking the same goal – production of Barolos worthy of assuming the mantle of Wine of Kings and King of Wines.

Mauro Molino’s Barolo would fit into the modernist camp, a wine already drinking well and fully realized from a stellar vintage. You are treated to the requisite Nebbiolo perfume of roses and earth, soft and inviting. This wine rolls onto the palate, layers of earth, and tobacco-carrying fruits that become darker mid-way through and continue to finish dry leaves. Unlike the old-style Barolos that needed a decade or more of bottle aging to be tamed, the tannins are finely integrated with unobtrusive acidity that speaks well of this wine’s potential to age gracefully.

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