Tenute Dettori 2005 Bianco, Romangia

Posted by Keith Wallace

A little over a year ago, I was raving about this winery’s Tudori, an atypical old school Sardinian Cannonau that exemplifies their uncompromising commitment to making wines that express a unique sense of culture and place.

The Bianco is a 100% Vermentino that challenges fixed notions of what that grape can offer. After a natural fermentation, macerated in cement tanks, it is neither clarified, stabilized, nor oaked before being hand bottled by the extended family. The only concession to “technology” is maintaining consistent cellar temperature.

The result? The concentrated amber color resembles an oxidized Chardonnay. A mouth-filling texture and full, rich body. A 15% ABV leavened by a beam of acid

This is a wine to be savored. Nuances of aroma and flavor don’t need to be deconstructed or overanalyzed. To do so would miss the point and be a disservice to the winemaker’s philosophical description of his creations – “…they are what they are. ” And what they are is as authentic as it gets, an oasis of take-it-or-leave-it winemaking in a Sahara of standardization.

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