Not that they needed it, but the recent infusion of Mediterranean-themed “small plate” menus on the local dining scene has opened palates to the quality and value of Spanish wines. However, Tempranillo, Garnacha, and all those powerhouses have kept exotic indigenous varietals on the fringes, and this full-bodied Bianco from Rias Baixas in Spain’s northwest corner is one example.
Golden and floral with a mouth-coating texture, yet it retains a sense of clarity, crispness, and purity of flavor on waves of acidity that are neither overly ripe nor juicy. Citrus, white peaches, and melons stay focused on a long, pronounced finish. This is a lot of wine, so bring on the bacalao!