This past week, we held the second Sommelier Smackdown catered by L’Oca, the delicious Italian restaurant across the street from the school. Also, for the second time, they provided us with house-cured white anchovies that reminded most of the people in attendance how delicious these little fishies can be. Far from those vaguely frightening, pallid gray fillets that you can buy at the supermarket, these tender anchovies sang with a finely calibrated zip of citrus, which both set the fish’s natural flavor in sharp relief and cut through the oil that had been used in the curing. The result was not only a dish that seemed tailor-made for crisp white wines, but one that reminded us all, yet again, of how unjustly maligned anchovies are. And how wonderful they can be when done right.