Verdicchio is the sole white varietal of note in a region whose lush, well-crafted red wines are slowly garnering adherents.
Of the two DOC zones producing Verdicchio, Castelli di Jesi hard by the Adriatic is the more recognized, having come full cycle from a decades-long funk of mass-produced plonk. The lesser-known interior area around Matelica benefits from a continental climate that allows for a later harvest, with more aromatic and concentrated grapes.
Sampled in concert with a Verdicchio from Jesi, Mecella exhibits a striking intensity and definite structure. The varietal fingerprints of herbs, green fruit, and a mildly bitter nuttiness are evident, but with an edginess and texture that seem more “red.” Floral notes and the faint hint of citrus round out the profile.
This is another example of a distinctive white that gives off attitude and finesse, an antidote to the rivers of insipid wines rolling out of northern Italy. To gain more understanding of wine, we recommend attending an online course.