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Getting schooled at the Philly Beer School

“Philadelphia is to beer what Sonoma is to wine,” says Keith Wallace to anyone who’ll listen. Considering the source, the proclamation, perhaps incendiary outside Pennsylvania, might sound outright puzzling within city limits. That’s because in 2001, Wallace, a winemaker, wine columnist, and author of two upcoming wine books, founded and still runs Philly’s best-known vinology school. So why is he extolling his territory’s beer lust at the expense of its pursuit of viticultural knowledge?

Because, acknowledging a craft revolution, he’s invited beer to take a permanent seat at The Wine School‘s table.

Wallace’s partner, a burly bald man named Dean Browne, asserts the alliance as he introduces himself to a group assembled in one of The Wine School’s classrooms on an early March night.

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Moletto 2004 “La Pisara” Salento

By now, most oenophiles know about the Primitivo-Zinfandel connection. And most would be able to sniff and sip the differences in North American zin and a dark, spicy, mildly tannic Salento …

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Feudo Maccari 2005″ReNoto” Sicilia

 Sicily is developing a reputation as the “California” of Italian wine, a region where ambiguous regulations allow winemakers latitude regarding production and freedom to experiment.The inclusion of non-Italian grapes to the …

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Bertani “Le Lave” 2002 Veneto

…Old and New World styles synthesize in this full-bodied, creamy blend born of volcanic soil that is the antithesis of vapid, watery white wines from the Veneto. Garganega, the basis of …

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Italian Wine Reviews

File this in the”old dog, new tricks” category. I’ve never been a fan of Italian Merlot. The ones I’d had the misfortune to experience were thin, too vegetal, and in some …

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Niepoort 2001 Vertente, Douro (PR)

The wines of Niepoort exemplify how much potential northern Portugal has, and the Vertente’s seamless integration of native grape varieties with a decidedly New World sensibility is nothing short of magical. …

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