Bertani “Le Lave” 2002 Veneto

…Old and New World styles synthesize in this full-bodied, creamy blend born of volcanic soil that is the antithesis of vapid, watery white wines from the Veneto. Garganega, the basis of true Soave Classico, plays a 40% supporting role in this “Super Venetian” IGT to Chardonnay that has been fully fermented in oak before blending.

At first, the result is floral and spicy, turning to melon and pear flavors with an intriguing push-pull of mild sweetness and salinity. The finish of green apple and toasted almonds shows none of the “woody” profile that the golden color and thoroughly rounded texture suggest. If a white wine can be described as big but unobtrusive, this is it.