Montesole 2003 Fiano di Avellino, Campania

Posted by Keith Wallace

.This varietal stands out from the unassuming crowd of white wines from the region, all of them interesting in their own right but whose nuances are not easily discerned.

Fiano has sometimes been referred to as “pesto in a bottle,” a bit overstated but as accurate a descriptor as any for the dewy, pine resin qualities it sometimes displays. The Montesole version is a fine entry point into this unique wine. Those foresty elements are tamed without sacrificing their typicity..there’s still enough of the earthiness characteristic of wines from the Colli Irpini.

Scents of lime and flowers; flavors of vaguely tropical fruits and well-defined pear, apple, and lemon-lime flavors assisted by the crisp acidity you usually find in Vini Campanese. There’s enough attitude in Fiano to make it more than a summer quaffer; it has the body to hold its own with grilled seafood and vegetables or paired with mozzarella di bufalo drizzled with basil oil.

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