Chateau Leoville-Barton 2004, St,-Julien

had the great misfortune of being sandwiched between the exotically ripe 2003 and the already-legendary 2005. But for serious terroir-lovers, for those who want to taste exactly where a wine is from, 2004 should not be overlooked. The Leoville-Barton, always one of the great values in Bordeaux, tastes like the best cigar you’ve ever drunk. It’s young, but has tons in reserve.

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