German Pinot Noirs are having a well-deserved renaissance. Before the Little Ice Age (a time of drastic cooling in 15th Century Europe), Germany grew a lot of Pinot Noir. The Mosel region, in particular, had an excellent reputation for the reds it produced. However, regional temperatures are on an upswing once again, and the Pinots are, once again, dramatically better.
Gunther Steinmetz is looking to France for inspiration. This bottling is very much a Pinot in the Burgundian model: wild yeast, barrel fermentation, 20-year-old ungrafted vines, and a deep fascination with terroir. The winery is going as far as buying their barrels from several Grand Cru Burgundy wineries.
Aromas of forest floor lift from the glass, with crushed strawberry and cherry. The palate is delicately balanced between the vibrant acidity and tendril-like tannin—aA note of tarragon and clove mix with fresh red fruit on the finish.
There is a lot of complexity here, similar in framework to an Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru. This is a must-buy for anyone who dreams of drinking good Burgundy but can’t afford the price tag.