Alsace is the place where sommeliers and grandmothers meet to share a glass of wine. Everyone else, it seems, just doesn’t care. That is too bad, because the wines from this German-influenced wine region in France are always delicious, and often spectacular.

Tribach is a very good producer, but its wines come in two distinct categories: the large volume wines and the estate wines. The estate offerings are highly allocated. It’s no accident that every restaurant with three Michelin stars in France has an expensive Tribach on their wine list. It’s also no accident that their wines can be found for $20 in almost every wine shop in America.

When most people see a Muscat, they assume it is going to be sweet. This is not. In Alsace, Muscat is almost always fermented until dry. This one is bone dry. A nose of thyme and licorice starts off, then a few notes of lemon oil enter the stage. It has a vibrant flavor of navel orange, pomelo, and grapefruit candy. On the finish, there is a hint of apricot and river rocks.

This wine will be fantastic with oysters, especially if dressed with mignonette. A kale salad would be another great accompaniment, as would most vegetarian Indian dishes.