It was not too long ago that $10 bottles of wine were ground zero for the frugal and the downwardly mobile. That is no longer the case, at least for wine from Spain. Spanish wines are simply underpriced for the level of winemaking, quality of the grapes, and the age of the vineyards found in Spain today.
Many factors are involved in why this is happening right now: the economic crisis, the staggering supply of old vineyards, and the availability of cost-effective international shipping, to name a few. This won’t last forever, but for now, we have the chance to enjoy some excellent old-world wines at prices that defy common sense.
Cellars Baronia is located in the Montsant region, which shares a level of quality with its more famous neighbor, Priorat. The grapes are sourced from a 35-year-old vineyard. It yields only about 4 pounds of grapes per vine.
The wine has a beautiful garnet color in the glass. Aromatics of lime leaves and rosemary are intermingled with bright red fruits. On the palate, it is medium-full bodied with equally high tannins. The balance here is deft, with a core of mineral-rich acidity coursing through the center of the wine, giving the rich dark fruit a citrus counterpoint and pushing the flavors toward unexpected complexity. The finish shows earth and spice in equal measures.