The world’s love of Tuscany is all-encompassing, but I think that blinds us to nuance. So while we dive head-first into our love affair, perhaps a more critical eye may be able to see the unrealized potential still within Chianti Classico.
When I teach our Advanced Italian Sommelier program, I spend an entire lecture detailing the terror of the villages within the Chianti Classico region: I believe the region should be carved into grand cru classifications, much like Burgundy is. One candidate for such an honor is the hillside northwest of Panzano, where Caffagio is located.
This bottling is a near-perfect Sangiovese. It conforms to the classical ideals of the varietal without being contained by them. A leather and fresh tobacco framework expands into a bottom note of unforgiving mineral, then expands upward into sweet cherries and violets. A beautiful freshness extends into an elegant finish. This wine is a perfect pairing for a slow-roasted duck.
Rating: 94 Points | Purchased in a PA Fine Wine & Good Spirits shop for $16.99, but can cost upwards of $30.