From the moment I opened the bottle, this wine was one surprise after another. The color didn’t imply that the juice was 16 years old. Though redolent of the subtle aroma of leather and tobacco, the nose developed a cinnamon-rolled blackberry character after a few minutes of air. And while the palate started slowly, it blossomed into a stately mouthful of dried violets and apricots, with still-velvety tannins and a solid acid balance keeping it all alive. It certainly would have been better a year or two ago–or longer–but it was still hanging in there and giving plenty of pleasure.