Silvio Jermann 2005 “Were Dreams,” Friuli

Still, making jokes about Italian white wines? This one will cure you. Silvio Jermann, the genius of northeast Italy, produces some of the most interesting, well-crafted whites on the boot. This particular one, while not cheap, is a 750ml demonstration of exactly how nuanced Italian Chardonnay can be: It’s barrel-fermented, rich but not over-the-top, and supremely elegant. $59.99 is a lot of money for a bottle of white, but not too much for an eye-opening experience.