First there was Sparky Marquis. He was the “hit winemaker” for years in South Australia. His wines were highly coveted, especially in the states. His wines were bigger than life, bold, rich, but beautifully linear and precise as well. Things started going sideways for him in 2005, culminating with his divorce a few months ago from his wife Sarah, who now owns all their properties, including Mollydooker. Few people realized she, as much as Sparky, was responsible for that luxury-grade style of Shiraz that Mollydooker epitomized.
Why take that much time talking about another winery? Because the steps that Sarah walked, often in the shadow of her famous husband, made way for another female maker, who is rightfully getting rockstar-level love in Australia. Her name is Kim Jackson, and this is one of her wines.
Burnt incense, toasted allspice, and chocolate-covered cherries bobbing in a gigantic vat of blackberry jam. Oh, and the tannins are big and round as the face of a velvet dolphin. True hallucinatory hedonism.
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The Final Word: Shirvington 2010 Shiraz, McLaren Vale
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