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“What’s today’s topic, Keith?”
Keith Wallace, founder of the Wine School of Philadelphia, paused before answering, his co-host Alana Zerbe, the school’s Director of Wine Education, playfully teasing him about being put on the spot. Finally, he declared: “Wine reviews.”
It was a topic ripe for discussion, especially with a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Tour Saint Michel’s Cuvée Deux Sœurs waiting to be tasted at the episode’s close. The hosts’ banter quickly set the tone. “Wow,” Alana exclaimed, “I don’t know how you do that.” Keith responded with his trademark humor: “Not even my dog approves of my opinions.”
Wine Ratings: Yesterday and Today
The conversation shifted to the significance of wine ratings, a subject close to Keith’s heart. He reminisced about his early days as a winemaker, noting how much a high score could transform a career. “Back in the day, getting a 92 or 93 from Wine Advocate meant everything. It sold out your entire inventory—not just the one wine, but everything,” he shared.
But times have changed. Alana explained the origins of the ubiquitous 100-point scale, an American invention easily understood as akin to school grades: “90 to 100 is an A, 80 to 89 is a B, and so on.”
While wine ratings once carried immense weight, Keith observed a decline in their influence: “Search trends for ‘Robert Parker’ or ‘Wine Advocate’ have plummeted. People don’t know who they are anymore.”
The Anatomy of a Rating
For those new to wine, Alana provided a helpful primer on what ratings truly measure. “It’s not about deliciousness. It’s about correctness and typicity,” she explained. (00:08:10) Each grape and region has specific characteristics, and wines are judged on how well they represent those traits. Keith elaborated: “A Grenache should have a lavender nose, low acidity, and high tannins. If it hits those marks, it’ll score well—but that doesn’t mean you’ll like it.”
Their candid discussion revealed the pitfalls of over-relying on ratings. Keith shared a story about a shopper instructing her children to find the highest-rated bottle in the store. “That’s how not to do it,” he quipped, underscoring the importance of understanding ratings within context.
The Rise and Fall of Influence
The hosts delved into why wine ratings have waned in popularity. Keith traced the arc of their influence, recalling how a high score from Robert Parker once catapulted a winery to fame. Today, fewer consumers rely on ratings, partly due to mistrust in the system. “There’s been scandal, bribery, and pay-to-play dynamics,” he noted, adding that the industry’s transparency has improved but remains imperfect.
Crowd-Sourced Reviews: Friend or Foe?
When discussing alternatives like crowd-sourced reviews, Keith was cautious: “Most platforms cater to mass appeal, rewarding simple, fruit-forward wines.” However, he made an exception for CellarTracker, describing it as a niche, geek-friendly community. “It’s difficult to use, but the people on it care deeply,” he said.
Tasting Notes: Châteauneuf-du-Pape
As the episode’s highlight, Keith and Alana tasted the featured wine. Alana described its aromas as “lavender and licorice, with a hint of black cherry jello”—a childhood memory she fondly recalled. Keith noted the wine’s structure: “Big, unctuous, with fine-grained but aggressive tannins.” Despite its youth, the wine’s complexity was undeniable, showcasing dark plum, blackberry, and mocha undertones.
Why Ratings Still Matter—Sometimes
Ultimately, Keith and Alana argued that ratings still have a role, especially for navigating unfamiliar wines. “If you want a Cabernet Franc from South Africa, ratings can help you identify typical, well-made options,” Keith advised. Alana added that in Pennsylvania’s controlled wine market, where personalized recommendations are scarce, ratings are invaluable.
Closing Thoughts
The episode concluded with a plea to listeners: “If you enjoy our honest, straightforward approach, tell your friends—especially the wine snobs,” Keith said, laughing. Alana chimed in: “Raise your glass, savor the moment, and cheers to you!”
Through humor, insight, and a shared love of wine, Keith and Alana’s podcast serves as a reminder that while ratings can guide us, the joy of wine lies in the journey of discovery.
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