For much of the 20th century, winemaking centered on a narrow handful of grape varietals. The rest—hundreds of lesser-known grapes—were largely ignored, dismissed, or ripped from the ground entirely. Phylloxera, war, industrialized farming, and global market trends pushed many native grapes to the edge of extinction.
But extinction isn’t inevitable.
In recent decades, a quiet revolution has taken root. Growers and winemakers across the globe have begun rediscovering these nearly lost varietals. They’re replanting vines, reviving traditions, and reshaping the future of wine. What follows is a tribute to 16 of those grapes—their near-demise, their comeback stories, and the passionate people who refused to let them disappear.
Red Varietals
1. Assyrtiko — Greece
Near Extinction:
Native to the volcanic soils of Santorini, Assyrtiko was nearly wiped out by phylloxera and regional hardship in the early 20th century.
Revival:
By the 1970s, producers like Paris Sigalas and the Boutari family began revitalizing the island’s vineyards. Today, Assyrtiko is one of Greece’s flagship grapes, prized for its crisp acidity and flinty minerality—expressions shaped by its volcanic birthplace.
2. Baga — Portugal
Near Extinction:
Once common in Bairrada, Baga fell out of favor due to its low yields and challenging tannins.
Revival:
In the 1980s, Luís Pato bucked the trend, embracing traditional methods and coaxing age-worthy structure from old Baga vines. The grape now garners respect for its bold structure, dark fruit, and longevity.
3. Blaufränkisch — Austria
Near Extinction:
Blaufränkisch (Lemberger in Germany) suffered widespread neglect after WWII.
Revival:
Producers like Moric and Wachter-Wiesler showcased its affinity for terroir. With high acidity and notes of blackberry, pepper, and violet, Blaufränkisch has reemerged as Austria’s great red hope.
4. Bobal — Spain
Near Extinction:
Long relegated to bulk wine status, Bobal nearly vanished under Spain’s postwar industrial push.
Revival:
In the 1990s, pioneers in Utiel-Requena, including Vicente García, began making serious wines from old vines. Today, Bobal is celebrated for its deep color, rustic tannins, and wild herb notes.
5. Carmenère — Chile
Near Extinction:
Thought to be extinct in Bordeaux, Carmenère was misidentified as Merlot in Chile for over a century.
Revival:
In 1994, ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot discovered its true identity. Chile has since embraced Carmenère as a signature varietal, loved for its dark fruit, green pepper notes, and silky texture.
6. Schioppettino — Italy
Near Extinction:
Declared extinct by the 1970s, this spicy Friulian red had disappeared from vineyards.
Revival:
A regional decree allowed for replanting, and estates like Ronchi di Cialla led the charge. Today, Schioppettino offers vibrant acidity, peppery spice, and refined elegance.
7. Godello — Spain
Near Extinction:
Native to Galicia, Godello dwindled to a few scattered plots by the 1970s.
Revival:
Winemakers in Valdeorras recognized its potential. Now a top-tier Spanish white grape, Godello balances crisp citrus with creamy texture and mineral complexity.
8. Sagrantino — Italy
Near Extinction:
Once reserved for local sacramental wine, Sagrantino almost vanished from Umbria.
Revival:
In the 1970s, Arnaldo Caprai began championing it. Sagrantino di Montefalco now produces bold, tannic reds that age for decades, with dark fruit and leather at their core.
9. Negroamaro — Italy
Near Extinction:
As Puglia turned to bulk production, quality-minded grapes like Negroamaro were left behind.
Revival:
Winemakers like Cosimo Taurino and Leone de Castris restored its reputation. Negroamaro now anchors rich, earthy reds full of dark fruit and spice.
10. Nerello Mascalese — Italy
Near Extinction:
Etna’s signature grape was nearly forgotten as Sicily embraced international varietals.
Revival:
Visionaries like Tenuta delle Terre Nere and Frank Cornelissen revealed its elegance. With red fruit, floral lift, and volcanic minerality, Nerello Mascalese expresses Mount Etna like no other.
11. Charbono — USA
Near Extinction:
Imported from France, Charbono (a.k.a. Douce Noir) was pushed out by Cabernet in California.
Revival:
Producers like Inglenook and later Randall Grahm kept the faith. Charbono’s low yields and late ripening yield inky, acid-driven reds that age surprisingly well.
12. Pallagrello Nero — Italy
Near Extinction:
A casualty of phylloxera and two world wars, this Campanian grape nearly vanished.
Revival:
Wineries like Alepa and Terre del Principe brought it back. Rich, structured, and aromatic, Pallagrello Nero is now a hidden gem in southern Italy.
13. Trousseau — France
Near Extinction:
Jura’s Trousseau declined as other regions and grapes took center stage.
Revival:
Producers like Domaine Tissot reintroduced it as a terroir-driven red with delicate red fruit, earth, and spice. Trousseau has also found success in California’s Sierra Foothills.
White Varietals
14. Arneis — Italy
Near Extinction:
By the 1980s, Arneis had all but disappeared from Piedmont.
Revival:
Thanks to estates like Vietti and Bruno Giacosa, Arneis now thrives again. Expect orchard fruit, almonds, and a creamy texture balanced by bright acidity.
15. Malagousia — Greece
Near Extinction:
Once thought lost, only one known vine remained in central Greece.
Revival:
Vangelis Gerovassiliou recognized its value and brought it back. Malagousia now produces aromatic whites with stone fruit, citrus, and floral notes.
16. Furmint — Hungary
Near Extinction:
Communist-era agriculture favored high yields over quality, nearly erasing Furmint’s potential.
Revival:
In the 1990s, producers like Royal Tokaji and Disznókő led its revival. Today, Furmint makes both legendary Tokaji Aszú and crisp, mineral-driven dry whites.
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