There’s something to be said for a bit of age on a bottle. When this wine was released a few years ago, it didn’t make any friends in the wine critic community. Originally released at $16 a bottle, El Molet earned lukewarm reviews. Wine Enthusiast gave it an 86; Vinous gave it an 87, and Wine Spectator another 87.
These are “good” ratings, but nothing sells in the US unless it has a rating of 90 or above. This bottle is something of an ugly duckling. The first few years of its life, it was a bit green-toned and abrasive. That can happen to grapes that are harvested early, which is done to maintain structure and acidity. The tannins have evolved with a few years, and this bottle has been revealed to be a swan.
This has matured into a hedonistic bottle of lush fig and milk chocolate. The velvet structure hints at eucalyptus and bay leave with a finish that moves toward fresh blueberries and espresso—a real delight. Buy a case and enjoy it over the winter.