Maturano

Italy’s Wine Heritage

To love Italy is also to loathe Italy. Italy’s fragmentation makes it both remarkable and dysfunctional, with each region possessing unique characteristics. This fragmentation extends to the vineyards, where ancient, unique vines await discovery and preservation. Historical examples include Fiano and Antonio Mastroberardino in Campania, and Arneis and Bruno Giacosa in Piemonte. Now, Cesidio Di Ciacca and the Maturano grape in the Val di Comino region of Lazio join this lineage, highlighting Italy’s diverse viticultural heritage.

The Journey of Maturano

Maturano, recorded in the 1881 Italian Ministry of Agriculture’s Ampelographic Bulletin, was virtually unknown before Di Ciacca moved to Picinisco from Scotland. After acquiring 220 parcels of land from 140 relatives, he chose to revive the Maturano grape instead of growing the local DOC, Cabernet di Atina. With cuttings from local farmers and guidance from winemaker Alberto Antonini, Di Ciacca planted five hectares of Maturano in 2013, adhering to organic farming principles.

Discovery and Adaptation

Di Ciacca discovered two distinct vines among his cuttings, producing different fruit types. Unconvinced by local claims that both were Maturano (masculine and feminine), he conducted genetic testing, confirming their genetic identity and uniqueness. Despite a challenging 2016 harvest due to wild boar, Di Ciacca successfully harvested in 2017, marking a significant milestone for Maturano.

Winemaking Experimentation

Di Ciacca, guided by local traditions, chose native yeasts and concrete aging for his wines. His first wine, Nostalgia, made from free-run juice, initially disappointed him. However, historical references suggested that Picinisco’s white wines improve with age. Di Ciacca experimented with various styles, including skin contact and passito, finding that Maturano shows promise as an ageworthy white wine.

The Future of Maturano

The future of Maturano looks promising as it continues to gain recognition. Di Ciacca’s dedication to preserving and promoting this ancient grape is inspiring a new generation of winemakers in Lazio. As Maturano wines age and evolve, they hold the potential to become a hallmark of the region, celebrated for their unique characteristics and historical significance.

Maturano and Local Cuisine

Maturano pairs beautifully with the local cuisine of the Val di Comino region. Traditional dishes, rich in flavors and history, complement the grape’s minerality and complexity. From hearty pastas to delicate seafood, Maturano enhances the dining experience, showcasing the harmonious relationship between wine and food in this unique part of Italy.