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Forastera

Posted by Keith Wallace

Forastera is mainly grown on the island of Ischia, part of Naples, off the coast of Campania. Initial research told of these grapes from the Canary Islands and brought to Italy.

I felt akin to this story, as my ancestral roots are from the Canary Islands with a bit of Italian. There is another Forastera from Spain, but these two grape varieties were shown to be completely different through recent DNA testing. It was so delicious, and I decided to highlight this wine anyway.

The Italian variety goes by many names, notably Forastera Blanca, Forastiera, Forestera, Forestiera, Frastera, Furastiera, and Uva dell’Isola. The name means “foreigner” or “from the outside.” Again, alluding to the possibility that it was the variety was originally from somewhere other than where it was found.

The first formal mention of Forastera was made by Giuseppe di Rovasenda in 1877. He found it cultivated in the region of the province of Bergamo in Lombardy around the town called

Grumello Del Monte. Soon after the discovery, it was close to extinction in that particular area.

Fellow ampelographer Giuseppe Froio mentioned the grape in the late 19th century when the variety was found in the region of Ischia. Dating back to 700 BC and originally called Enaria or “land of vines,” the island is rich with volcanic soil and steep vineyards, some of that can only be reached by boat. This island off the coast of Naples was recognized in the 60s for its ability to grow high-quality vines and was awarded a DOC. This was the second DOC ever to be established, a nod to this region’s uniqueness and quality winemaking.

Forastera produces a gorgeous white traditionally used in blends with another native grape, Biancoella. Only recently has Forastera started to make a name for itself on its own. It ripens

early and vigorously, often requiring green harvesting to maintain quality. According to the Vitis International Catalogue, there are over 250 acres dedicated to this variety, although some sources say it is down to less than 20 acres as of 2016.

The wine I chose for this particular exercise was a 2021 Cenatiempo Forastera DOC.

Since 1945, Cenatiempo has been making wine on Ischia. It focuses primarily on the Forastera and Biancolella varieties for their whites, Piedirosso, known locally as Per’ ‘e Palummo, and Aglianico for reds.

Sourced from the Lacco Ameno, a deeply terraced vineyard is 200 meters above sea level. Medium-bodied, with balanced acidity, this wine immediately reminds me of Torrontes. Similar in taste profile, this wine is smooth with notes of apricot and almonds with light herbaceousness. Deep straw yellow, almost golden in color, one would think it saw some skin contact; however, notes from the producer state otherwise. This would be amazing with lemony pasta with seared tuna or a chicken with fresh pesto. Pleasantly surprised; I will absolutely search this variety out again. Few outstanding bottles are exported to the US, and those cost around $25.

Casavecchia

Casavecchia is slightly better known of the two varieties here, with a DOC established in 2011.

The local legend mentions a lone vine was discovered near an old house in the ruins of Pontelatone, hence the name Casavecchia or “old house.” Some research suggested that Casavecchia derives directly from the ancient variety Trebulano, as mentioned by Pliny the Elder in Naturalis Historia. However, there isn’t solid evidence to support this claim.

Casavecchia is often used in blending with other grapes, and its low productivity makes it difficult to grow. Local producers are keen on highlighting this as a single varietal, and there has been a significant push to increase quality and production. Casavecchia grape is high in anthocyanins which give the wine intense color.

The Barletta family of the winery Vestini Campagnano claims to be the first to research the almost extinct Casavecchia clones in 1990. Starting with just a few vines that they found, the family partnered with local enologist Luigi Moio and began production.

I found one bottle of Casavecchia: Cretaccio Casavecchia di Pontelatone DOC Vigne Chigi 2015. Despite the good ratings and reviews, I was disappointed. The wine was flabby with low acid. Notes of balsamic and fig were present, and the overall taste was lacking. Traditionally, this wine should have subtle minerality, black fruit, and a distinct earthiness. This wine fell short, but I got slight iron on the palate and cooked fruit, albeit overly cooked. I will search for this variety again because I feel like I just got a bum bottle. Everything I read about it was tailor-made for my taste – so I’ll keep searching.

Clearly, Campania is calling. For several weeks, I’ve been pouring over maps, reading wine reviews, and scouring the interwebs to learn all about these esoteric grapes saved from extinction. Next time I need a new wine, I’m heading to MacArthurs and chatting with my new friend Tim. Let’s see what else he has for me to try!

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