term_id ) ) . '" alt="' . esc_attr( sprintf( __( 'View all posts in %s', 'textdomain' ), $category->name ) ) . '">' . esc_html( $category->name ) . '' . $separator; } echo trim( $output, $separator ); } ; if ( has_excerpt() ) : // Only show custom excerpts not autoexcerpts ?>

<

Grignolino

Posted by Keith Wallace

Vines and vineyards are plentiful in Italy, growing vivaciously through the country’s microclimates. Of all the wine-producing countries in the world, Italy produces the most by liter production each year. To all the Francophiles and factoid-loving people, do not worry – the Old- World France takes second place for total production. Almost eighty percent of Italy’s surface is mountainous, winding knolls, sloping valleys, or undulating hills. Combine that with the sun-soaked, water-bathed peninsular geography, and it is no wonder why there are over 500 native grape varieties in Italy alone.

One of the best-known areas for big, bold, powerhouse wines is the Northwest area called Piedmont, or Piemonte in Italian. Bordering France and Switzerland, this region is exactly the translation of its name– “at the foothills” of the Alps mountains. You will find a plethora of Piedmont-born and grown red wines made of Nebbiolo (Barolo and Barbaresco), Barbera, and Dolcetto. However, you have probably never or rarely heard of Grignolino. Once well-regarded and abundantly grown in the 13th century, Grignolino was near-extinct. Much of this is due to the grape’s ebbs and flow in popularity, unique flavor profile, and the fruit’s challenging and sensitive production requirements.

Generally speaking, Italian wine and winemakers are often considered playful, perky, and productive. These characteristics, however, are not true of the growing grape culture in Piedmont. Here, viticulture is rigorous, prudent, and particular. This is perhaps why many wine enthusiasts and enophiles draw a comparison between the Italian Piemonte region to France’s Burgundy. But, inside the Piedmont region is a delightful pocket or subdivision called Monferrato Hills, best known for the appellation of Asti. This section now claims the exclusive production of today’s Italian Grignolino vines. Maybe this is a blessing, as winemakers in this specific subregion keep to the stereotype of being more fun, experimental, and of that lighthearted personality. Amongst these Grignolino grapes, the majority of the slopes and swaths of Monferrato are dedicated to the Moscato grape, famously associated with semi-sweet sparkling spumante (fizzy) wines from here.

The word Grignolino comes from the Piedmontese dialect word “grignolè,” which may either refer to the distinctive number of pips (instead of the typical two, there are three seeds) inside the thin-skinned, dark grape, or the name could stem from the grimace or “grating of teeth” when one bites into the high acid and tannic grape. It wasn’t always called this name– some historical records show other names, such as Balestra, Verbesino, or Barbesino. When you see Grignolino bunches hanging from their vines, they’re strikingly bulky, often growing in three wings to form a reverse pyramid. These brawny bunches start as a kaleidoscope of colors and eventually reach their ashen dark blueish-red hue.

So, how does this magically underrated grape taste? It’s important to inform you that this grape is an excellent interpreter of the earth and soil from which it grows. In fact, Conte Giuseppe di Rovasenda, a revered Italian viticulturist and enologist, claimed that Grignolino grapes were one of the most “extremely fine” grape varieties he studied while requiring specific soils for its best presentation. The finest vines grow in calcareous clay, sand, loam, and limestone.

The result is a gracefully framed, medium-bodied, fine-grained, highly tannic, and high-acid wine. Avoid bottles with dark juice; the best Grignolino wine is a pale, light-ruby red with garnet edges. The aromas of delicate Alpine wildflowers are reminiscent of roses and violets mixed with red berries and cinnamon. On the palate is a low-alcohol (usually 12%) mildly sweet, crisp, tangy profile complete with flavors of pomegranate, red raspberries, strawberries, and nuanced wild cherries with a touch of white pepper and earth.

Serving this mouthwatering wine with food? The wine is similar to Dolcetto from Cuneo or Beaujolais from Burgundy – the grapes are grown, harvested, processed, and made to be enjoyed young. Typically aged in steel, there is some newer movement to use nominal oak aging for additional ‘toastiness.’ Pair this wine with light fare: white-meat dishes like chicken, rabbit, or veal; agnolotti or ravioli with light herb and cream sauces. These wines also pair well with soy glazes and soy-based sauces.

It would be a disservice to only think of Italy as a country of big, bold red wines. Next time you’re at your local wine store, take a chance on exploring a lesser-known Piedmont red grape variety, making a resurgence, and coming back. Look out for an Italian DOC bottle from either Montferrato Casalese or Grignoline d’Asti. Today, there are only a handful of places growing Grignolino outside its indigenous areas, such as Santa Clara and Napa here in the US (Back Room Wines or Heitz Cellars). Winemakers continue to grow this ancient, evocative, and tenacious grape to keep it from another potential extinction. Standing in solitary beside its austere Nebbiolo brethren and sweeter Dolcetto cousin sits a bottle of Grignolino that often goes overlooked.

Ashwin Gupta

Item added to cart.
0 items - $0.00
×