Terlato 2009 Syrah Block 9 Dry Creek Valley

(Michael Austin / Chicago Tribune) America, we’ve got a lot of catching up to do. Our wine consumption per capita is ranked 39th in the world, though we are the fourth largest producer.

In volume, because we are many, we are up there with the best of them. But individually, on a personal-productivity level, we are not even a factor. I’m basing this on official statistics published in the newest edition (2015) of “The Oxford Companion to Wine,” and even if there are newer figures available, these are adequate for our purposes.

Hold on to your hats. Globally, in per capita wine consumption, the United States ranks 39th — one spot behind Bulgaria, and barely ahead of Macedonia, Belarus and Albania (40, 41 and 42). We trail Iceland, for crying out loud, and Canada and Estonia (34, 33 and 32). Surprisingly we’re ahead of Kazakhstan (53), because have you seen the way Borat chugs wine?

OK, you’ve held on to your hat — now hold on to your socks. While we’re 39th in per capita consumption, in wine production we rank … fourth. Anyone still wearing socks, feel free to gently release your grip because the bitter, shocking winds are over. Only France, Italy and Spain produce more wine than we do. There are no real surprises in the rest of the top 10 either (Argentina, China, Australia, Chile, South Africa, Germany). China is relatively new to winemaking, but when they set their minds to something, they tend to get results. If you think about it, it’s not all that unusual for something to be made in China. Why not wine?

American winemakers produce some of the best wine on Earth. Our restaurants are as good as any country’s. Wine from the world over is better, cheaper and more available in the United States than it ever has been. It’s in fine wine shops, chain supermarkets (which can stock great wines next to plonk), and quick marts — not far from the fly strips and WD-40. Wine is everywhere!

Or is it? It’s everywhere I look, but I don’t look everywhere. People who pay attention to wine (us) imagine that everyone has at least a few bottles on hand always, or 100 bottles in the basement, or 1,000 bottles in a climate-controlled cellar across town. While all of these things are happening somewhere, they’re just not the norm everywhere in the country. This isn’t a revelation — but perhaps the statistics will inspire us to reflect on our relationship to wine and its presence in our lives.

Looking at those wine statistics could lead one to think that wine is not as much a part of our overall culture as we think. We are probably still a rather esoteric group, we wine people, so embedded in our movement that we don’t realize how fledgling it remains to be. Which, to me, is not discouraging — it’s exciting.

Those actual per capita amounts? Americans drink three gallons of wine per year — a little more than a bottle a month. The French drink 15.3 gallons a year, but they’re not even the tops. That honor belongs to Luxembourg. Folks there drink 16 gallons. It doesn’t make them better or worse than us. It just means that wine is more a part of their culture, and I can’t imagine that ever being a bad thing. Let’s catch up.

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