Enzo Mecella Verdicchio di Matelica “Pagliano”, 2006, Le Marche
Verdicchio is the sole white varietal of note in a region whose lush, well crafted red wines are slowly garnering adherants.
Of the two DOC zones producing Verdicchio, Castelli di Jesi hard by the Adriatic is the more recognized, having come full cycle from a decades long funk of mass produced plonk. The lesser known interior area around Matelica benefits from a continental climate that allows for a later harvest, with grapes that are more aromatic and concentrated.
Sampled in concert with a Verdicchio from Jesi, Mecella’s exhibits a striking intensity and definite structure. The varietal fingerprints of herbs, green fruit, and a mildly bitter nuttiness are evident, but with an edginess and texture that seem more “red”. Floral notes and the faint hint if citrus round out the profile.
This is another example of a distinctive white that gives off attitude and finesse, an antidote to the rivers of insipid wines rolling out of northern Italy.